Talking to the dead…

logoA blast from the past this, as I wrote it almost a year ago as a follow on to a write-up on the Los Muertos tap-house. It’s been sat in my drafts box since July 2014, needs airing, so here goes nothin’. Please note though, that may things may have changed since then as the bar and beer range has no doubt grown, a year is a long time…

I met Conner Watts, owner and master brewer at Los Muertos briefly and perhaps not in the best of circumstances for which a chat, and of course an accurate recollection of said chat could be relayed here. Nevertheless, I’ll try to recap and capture the essence of the conversation, assisted by a few emailed notes from Conner himself.

It was a busy afternoon at the Los Muertos Brewpub, the football world cup in full swing, with the USA versus Belgium game being shown live that afternoon. The bar was full of American supporters, plus two others, us, shouting for Belgium in the cheap seats. By this stage we’d pretty much gone through the beer menu and it’s fair to say that I was a tad tipsy at this point. I’d seen someone who I assumed was the brewer dashing around the place doing this and that, chatting to customers and I’m glad to say, trying to get some of the folk still drinking local bottles to at least sample something from the range on tap. Finally I caught him standing still at the bar and wobbled across to introduce myself.

We chatted a little about the beers and what I thought of them and about the bar, food etc and I duly sang their collective praises, whilst giving him my thoughts on what I had enjoyed the most, plus those that I’d found lacking a little. Conner explained that they were all pretty much works in progress, with some being closer to being exactly how he wanted than others. The problem being that he was trying to be slightly conservative in some aspects, wanting to get more interest locally with Mexican nationals rather than only appealing to the tourist trade. The range of beers that locals have been exposed to are pretty “safe” lager/beers and ambers, mass-produced offerings you might say, so there would be little point brewing only beers to the massive “hop-head” market.

I mentioned that I’d spotted him chatting away to folks at tables drinking bottles, and he confirmed that basically he was aiming to educate them slowly as to what he was about, in the hope that gradually folk would start to try other things and spread the word. A slow battle, but one that was reaping some reward.

Lastly my biggest gripe, an odd one for most, but something I have just gotten used to over recent years, that being serving measures. Pints or 16oz glasses of beer are great for slipping down the session pales, lagers and the like, ideal in fact for the hot and humid temperatures of Puerto Vallarta, but if you want to try a few different beers, can be hard work.

It was explained that smaller glasses and even flights were on order (and should by now be in place), always being part of the plan but slipping down the pecking order of all the things that were critical in getting the place into shape.

In an earlier life, Conner had been a restaurateur in a ski resort in Park City back in USA before moving to Puerto Vallarta. Why Mexico? Well, simply because his wife was sick and tired of the cold! What they missed most after a few months was the variety of beer, so they said to each-other “we can do something about this” and set to work.

“I’d been home-brewing beer myself ever since I was at school in Colorado, so I went back and spent a summer there brewing commercially, trying to refine my knowledge and expanding it to cope with the economies of scale before jumping in with both feet. Once back in Mexico we set about making the brewery happen, the rest is history”

IMG_9605On asking about the challenges he’d faced along the way? “Our biggest challenge getting started was temperature. The original brew house had a really poor cooling capacity, so we had issues from knocking out to maintaining appropriate fermentation temperatures to crashing our tanks and dispensing beer.

The result was mediocre beer at best. We were able to get that fixed and now I’m extremely proud to serve ALL our beers.”

As a footnote to this post, you may, especially in the UK and US, have heard about another beers with a very similar look and branding to Los Muertos, “Cerveza de los Muertos” being one as written about by Philip Montoro of “Chicago Reader” here.

These beers are not from the same stable and I am reliably informed that “los muertos” can’t, or at least would be tricky to copyright. However, as with most things, although established first, Los Muertos do not have the financial backing to be able to fight the might of the likes of Coors who are said to own the other “Mexican Craft” brand, so just have to suck it up and carry on. An all too familiar story..

Cheers

Los Muertos Brewing Co (Part One)

logoAs an Englishman/Brit, holidays abroad usually means one of two things dependant on destination. Either an amazing selection of beer in certain parts of Europe or a sea of relatively bland yellow fizz in others, with a similar story further afield for long-haul destinations. As a seasoned beer traveller, very early on in the planning stages for our “non-beer” holiday, I always try and do a bit of digging as to what is in the area, or at least a short travelling distance in the hope we can escape for a little “exploration”. This time around we dropped on a really good deal for Mexico, a little place called Puerto Vallarta on the Pacific coast. All very last-minute, so with little expectation I tapped the destination into Google, fearing the worst but getting a most welcome surprise when staring back at me was “Los Muertos Brewing, Puerto Vallarta’s first Brewpub”. Digging deeper all the signs looked good, leaving getting there as being the only hurdle as it showed as being quite a distance away from our resort, some daft sod had plonked an airport right in the way dammit..

Once on the ground we found that there was a regular bus service into town which was really cheap, but as our journey required a couple of changes and speaking little of the lingo we took the cowards way out and grabbed a cab. Despite being close on a 40 minute journey though, the cost was a reasonable 270 Pesos or roughly £12.50 which is well worth it, especially as we had no real clue as to where we were going.

IMG_9610Arriving at lunchtime we grabbed a table by one of the large open arches of the cantina style bar, still relatively quiet apart from a few folks eating and watching the early football world cup game on one of the many TV screens dotted around, sitting awhile to take in our surroundings before making a beer choice.

IMG_9613First impressions, it sort of reminded me a little of a Brewdog style bar, not identical, but with that gritty modern-metallic feel, although clearly with a Mexican tint and a much more almost alfresco-esque twist. The impressively shiny but nonetheless imposing brew-plant drawing the eye, a stark reminder that this is a place of work as well as pleasure. I like it, it’s the sort of place I’d like to own, functional, fun, a happy place to enjoy a beverage or two.

IMG_9608The menu too is a welcome sight, 7 beers*, all brewed on-site, ranging from blonde though hefenweisse styles, into IPA’s and Ambers, with tantalising chilli beers and stouts for the more adventurous in the Mexican heat. Food to match, pizza, fantastic sounding sandwiches, chicken and more, with prices being exceptionally reasonable. All beers were 45 Pesos for around a pint (probably 500ml or the US/Mexican equivalent measure 16oz?) regardless of strength and style, this equating to around £2 at current exchange rates. Or maybe try the most enormous slice of pizza, salad and side, with a pint for an amazing value 60 Pesos.

*seven beers on at the time of our visit, this seems typical but I believe some of the range rotates

We started the beer selection in suitable fashion with a couple of thirst quenchers after our journey, the wife choosing Mexicana Rubia Blonde and myself opting for El Jefeweizen, a summer wheat beer. Both did their job and were pleasant enough, although I was slightly disappointed with the wheat, it being almost clear and lacking in the expected flavours or claimed coriander and orange, not bad, but lacking something.

IMG_9604Next up was Agave Maria Amber and Anillo de Fuego Chilli beer, the former being a typical American amber in style and very well executed, a welcome change to have a beer at last with some depth of flavour after the hotel offerings. Not massively hoppy, but enough to be pleasantly drinkable.

The chilli beer was also pretty good with quite a bit of chilli heat, although a pint was quite a challenge. It would probably make an excellent base for “Cielo Rojo” (Red Sky) as suggested in the commercial description. This is a local sort of beer cocktail as I believe, a variation of which I saw lots of people order back at our hotel. Made up of cerveza/beer, tomato juice, Worcester and Tabasco sauce and lime juice, served in a salt edged glass. I didn’t try one personally but Mrs H sampled one and quite enjoyed it (although not ordering another).

IMG_9616Revenge Pale Ale came next, the moment I’d craved long before walking in the door, hopped with Chinook, Columbus and Cascade, it did not disappoint and supplied the first “hop-burp” experience since leaving the UK. Hiding its 6.1 ABV extremely well it went down far too quickly which was a massive shame as I could really have sunk a few more. Sadly though I had to move on to get through the menu, the large measures not helping matters here.

The intriguing sounding Hop On was our next offering, billed as an American Strong Ale and arriving at the table much darker than I at least expected. In my mind I pictured something akin to a double IPA when in fact it was a really dark ruby glassful with a coffee crema-brown head foaming on top. Rich and malty with a decent hop hit and again something I’d quite happily order again should the chance arise.

IMG_9618Last beer of a really enjoyable afternoon was the McSanchez Stout. Listed as being the Los Muertos version of Guinness Irish Stout which I personally think does it a real disservice as for me, it knocks “the black stuff” into a cocked hat. I was a little wary of drinking an Irish stout on a day where the outside temperatures were in the mid thirties, but this was a real treat, chilled just enough so as not to be soupy, but still letting the delicious roasty flavours shine. Surprisingly my second favourite beer of the day.

More on Los Muertos in a day or two, with a short interview with brewer/owner Conner Watts, but for now, thanks for reading.

Cheers

IMG_9605MORE INFORMATION:

The Los Muertos beer menu can be found here, but I’ve listed those we tried below for ease of reference.

Beers

Mexicana Rubia Blonde: A light bodied ale that combines the smooth drinkability of traditional Mexican lagers with the bite of a Czech pilsner

El Jefeweizen: A crispy smooth summer wheat beer with just the right amount of cloudiness from a German inspired weisen. Great session beer highlighted with coriander and orange zest.

Agave Maria: A Medium bodied ale, lightly hopped, but full on the palate. Expect nutty flavours coming through in this highly drinkable American style amber.

Anillo de Fuego: Wheat based ale fermented on a bed of diced serrano peppers. This picante twist will definitely put a little pep in your step. Try this with tomato juice or as the base of a Cielo Rojo for a uniquely Vallartan beverage.

Revenge: A knock-you-down pale ale nearly hoppy enough to be considered an IPA by most beer enthusiasts – high gravity and high hops. Starkly distinct from anything you’ve had in Mexico and made for the hop-heavy, IPA crowd.

Hop On: We’re calling it an American Strong Ale which leaves us quite a bit of wiggle room in our interpretation of the style. This malty, hoppy, dark ale will really get your attention. Overall bitterness and coffee like flavours will entertain your senses.

McSanchez: Fancy Guinness with your bangers and mash? This is our version of a fresh pint of the creamy Irish classic.

Location and Contacts:

Lazaro Cardenas 302
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco 48380

Hours: Mon – Sun, 12pm – 12am

Phone: 01 322 222 0308

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Hawkshead Spring

IMG_8659The night before I set off to Staveley, the home of Hawkshead Brewery, for their annual Spring Festival, someone said to me, “well, there’s not much on” in reference to the beer list. I feigned mock concern but secretly thought, “I doubt it”. The person making the remark is a fan of Hawkshead and the comment I think was not meant in a derisory way either, but if you travel to lots of standard UK beer fests as he does, it’s perhaps an easy mistake to make.

Personally speaking I’ve been to far too many beer festivals that claim to have 25-250 real ales, ciders and perry to tempt you to venture along, only to find a far too high proportion of them are the same old standards you’ve tried at festival after festival, or in your local, or in the supermarket. Don’t get me wrong, I understand it to a degree, festivals cost money, sponsored beer is sponsored beer and of course if that is what the local punters lap up (or what the festival beer list compiler prefers) that I’m afraid is that.

IMG_8667IMG_8658For me though, it’s one of the many reasons why Hawkshead have the format nailed, and in some ways I feel, shows they were early pioneers of the modern “craft” or mixed serving method festivals we are seeing more and more of as years go by. Back in July 2012, I spent two days at the Summer Festival and had a brilliant time, that was the first occasion I’d had the chance to try kegged beers outside of a specialist bar, so to do it at such an event alongside an exciting range of hand pulled cask was just quality.

At this years Spring Fest (or my first) what Hawkshead seemingly decided, was to choose breweries and allow them to showcase a good proportion of their range, rather than take the scattergun approach and take one individual beer from here, there and everywhere. To the untrained eye or for the festival traditionalist that may make the beer list look a little barren at first glance, but when you look at who those breweries were and what they had on offer, you couldn’t help but be happy. I won’t list beers but those breweries were:

Hawkshead (obviously), Magic Rock, Buxton, Ossett, Quantum, Roosters, Siren, Stringers, Thornbridge, Tickety Brew, Tiny Rebel, Weird Beard and Wild. As you can see, still a good mix of local brews and those from further afield.

IMG_8655It’s not just beer choices though that make the Hawkshead festivals so special, they have such a relaxed feel, a bit like taking a stroll around a big farmers country market with an amazing beverage bonus waiting in the wings, all served to absolute perfection. But, if the beer hasn’t got you hooked already, here are five more reasons why it is one of my favourite beer festival locations, and why you should put a few box X’s on your own calendars this coming July and more in 2015.

1. Freedom I love the openness, there is no entry fee to pay, or programme to buy, so if you want to just pop in for a couple of halves you can do, no problem. I can only liken it to De Molen’s Borefts in that respect on there a fee for a glass and programme is charged. A side product of having the space on your own premises I suppose, but it’s definitely a winner that not everyone could replicate.

2. Munchies Then of course you have the fabulous food, from the Beer Kitchen and various local suppliers, all complimenting the occasion well, Brodies Prime sausages being my particular favourite.

3. Location, Location, Location Although the brewery is nestled at the back of a small industrial estate, that estate is in a picturesque little village in the Lake District, the Lake District is beautiful, the air is clean and it JUST FEELS NICE

IMG_86644. Four Legged Friends Whenever we go away for a beery trip, inevitably it means leaving the beloved pooch behind, adding to the organisational nightmare and journey times, besides that, she’s family, I miss having her around and she loves a good beer. This year we took her along, as did many many others and it was really enjoyable for us all. Maggie of course revelled in all the fuss and attention (Diva).

5. Folk Everyone is just so friendly, no doubt a by-product of all the above, relaxed, chilled having fun drinking good beer in fine company. As a city boy I reckon life in Cumbria would be tough, but whenever we are there, it always feels like I’m welcome and makes me want to sell up and move in.

In terms of my favourite beers, who cares really, I had a few that perhaps stood out, but more importantly none stood out for the wrong reasons, meaning either I made excellent choices, or perhaps they were made for me weeks ago without my knowledge..

Cheers to all at Hawkshead, to everyone who’s beer I supped and to those of you I supped them with. See you next time

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